October Uncorked
The four October Uncorked selections
October Uncorked
From the quotidian to collectible, Italy is home to some of the most inviting and intriguing wines available today.
This month’s Uncorked selection featured all red wines: two highly allocated cult classics and two daily drinkers.
October’s Wines
• ArPePe Rosso di Valtelina 2020
• Frank Cornelissen Susucaru 2020
• Le Piane Maggiorina 2020
• Ercole Barbera del Monferato DOC
ArPePe Rosso di Valtelina 2020
Talk to anyone interested in Nebbiolo, and ArPePe is bound to come up. Known for savvy innovation anchored deeply in tradition, the folks at ArPePe make wines that are coveted, extremely limited, collectible and delicious. We are lucky to get one ArPePe shipment each year and this year’s allocation went first to Uncorked members – membership has its privileges.
Based in Lombardy and the mountain region of Valtellina near the Swiss border, ArPePe vineyards lie in one of the most picturesque valleys in Italy. Valtellina is the second largest area in the world for Nebbiolo. And here, Nebbiolo – known locally as Chiavennasca - can offer perfumed, highly elegant, early drinking wines. Holding true to the style, ArPePe’s Rosso di Valtelina is meant to be drunk young.
Grapes in Valtellina are grown on steep, south-facing, terraced mountain slopes at elevations ranging from 600 to 1,800 feet. The sides of the valley slope steeply upwards and eventually turn into the snow-capped mountains of the Alps. For grapes to grow well here, the vineyards must take advantage of these steep south-facing slopes so that the grapes can be bathed in as much sun light as possible, otherwise, they won’t ripen.
Most people think of muscular Barolos or Barbarescos when they think of Nebbiolo. In Valtellina, however, the Nebbiolos are redolent with floral notes, pale in color, pure, elegant, nuanced and evocative of Burgundy – yet something entirely different. The red wines of Valtellina are truly an expression of the region’s distinct alpine climate and terroir.
The wines of ArPePe are farmed and made with minimal intervention. The grapes for the ‘Rosso’ spend 110 days macerating on the skins with 69 days in wooden vats followed by up to one year in untoasted oak casks.
The ‘Rosso’ is alive and vibrant. With notes of fresh cut flowers, rose petals and sour cherries, held together by a backbone of lithe tannins, ArPePe has achieved a wine of subtle complexity that speaks to its Alpine roots. Any edgy tang dissipates with a slight chill and decant, leaving the wine with a gorgeous line of acidity. This is Nebbiolo for Burgundy lovers. It pairs beautifully with creamy pasta, soft ripened cheese and white meats.
You can learn more about ArPePe here: https://www.arpepe.com
Frank Cornelissen Susucaru I.G.P Terre Siciliane 2020
Frank Cornelissen is the Gandalf of Etna. Part alchemist, part altruistic visionary, part viticultural idealist, Cornelissen is hell bent on coaxing absolute purity from Etna’s tortured volcanic soil.
While Cornelissen’s wines run the gamut, his entry level ‘Susucaru’ blends Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Capuccio, Minella Nera and Alicante Bouschet into a juicy red wine with aromas of red fruits, licorice notes and marine hints. On the palate it is rich, fresh and mineral. The finish is elegant and saline.
Although classified as ‘Terre Siciliane,’ Cornelissen’s fruit is grown at high elevations on the slopes of Mount Etna. The Etna DOC covers the slopes of Mount Etna – the 10,920-foot active volcano that dominates the Italian island of Sicily. Created in 1968, Etna was the first DOC on the island.
The most common Etna wine is the standard Etna Rosso, a red made predominantly from Nerello Mascalese. Its bianco (white) counterpart is composed of at least 60 percent Carricante, along with Cataratto and small amounts of Trebbiano and Minnella.
The Etna wine-producing zone arcs around the eastern side of the volcano, from Randazzo in the north to Santa Maria di Licodia in the south. The graduated topography creates a spread of mesoclimates as the land climbs up from near-sea-level to more than 3,940ft. Etna's highest vineyards now rank among the highest in Italy, easily matching those of Alto Adige.
Cornelissen’s approach is beyond organic. He eschews herbicides, pesticides and chemicals, and intervention of any kind. His wines undergo spontaneous fermentation with wild yeast and no added sulfites. The ‘Susucaru’ is meant to be drunk young and may benefit from a slight chill. Try it paired with red and white meats and charcuterie.
You can learn more about Frank Cornelissen here: https://www.frankcornelissen.it
Le Piane Maggiorina 2020
Le Piane’s Maggiorina is a field blend containing Nebbiolo (40%), Croatina (40%), Vespolina (5%), and nine other native local grapes (including some white varieties). The assorted vineyard sources for the wine are all planted with vines trained in the ancient maggiorina method, wherein the vines are fashioned into a large, goblet-shaped bush. Le Piane produces organic and natural wines with no herbicides, no pesticides and no chemicals
The Maggiorina hails from the tiny appellation of Boca in Italy’s Northern Piedmont. Like Barolo, which is 90 minutes to the south, the Nebbiolo grape reigns supreme in Northern Piedmont. Soils are dominated by limestone and clay. However, there are a few details that set the Boca area apart. The soils contain porphyry and crystals that glisten in the sunlight, held together by reddish sand and clay.
At harvest time, grapes from the various parcels are picked together and vinified together, which makes for a complex, varied wine with different fruits and lots of spices, while remaining a cheerful, savory and easy-drinking wine. Fermentation occurs with the skins in stainless steel tanks, with over-pumping for four to five days. After pressing, the wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for one year.
Although ‘Maggiorina’ is a lighter style of wine, lovers of Barolo, Barbaresco, and the other great Nebbiolo-based specialties of Piedmont will be right at home here. Nebbiolo’s dried cherry fruit, rose-petal florals and leathery savor is complemented by the darker, meatier flavors of Croatina, which also contributes a black pepper note. ‘Maggiorina’ is a tangy, earthy red that craves rustic, somewhat fatty food to show its best. Splash it in a decanter for 30 minutes and serve cool.
You can learn more about Le Piane here: https://www.bocapiane.it/en/
Ercole Barbera del Monferato DOC
Monferrato is in northern Italy’s Piedmont region. The region's name literally means ‘at the foot of the mountains,’ because the tallest Alpine peaks are located on Piedmont's land, which is encircled on three sides by the Alps mountain group. The Monferrato wine appellation is 300,000 hectares of picturesque hills and vineyards. It is divided into three parts by the Tanaro River: Lower Monferrato (Basso Monferrato), Astigiano (hills around the city of Asti), and Upper Monferrato (Alto Monferrato).
The cooperative behind Ercole works predominantly with old vines ranging from 30 to 50 years old. All participating growers adhere to the European Union rule for sustainable farming known as ‘lotta integrata,’ or ‘lutte raisonnée,’ though many are now certified organic. None of these growers use systemic treatments or chemicals, employing only minimal copper and sulfur. Both vinification and bottling are certified vegan.
Once the grapes are picked and pressed, the juice is fermented in concrete and finished in stainless steel. Ercole’s Barbera is a juicy red wine with aromas of ripe red fruits and flowers. On the palate it is rich, fresh and mineral with soft tannins and an elegant finish. This is a sublime daily drinker and a perfect match for pizza night.
You can learn more here: https://thepiedmontguy.com/ercole
There are many more exciting bottles on the horizon for Uncorked members, and if you’d like to join, go to https://www.foodcoop.coop/wineclub.
For those unfamiliar with the club, Co-op Uncorked is a subscription service featuring hand-picked selections from the Food Co-op’s curated wine and beer department. Geared toward novice and experienced wine drinkers alike, the club takes members on a vinicultural journey, at times covering familiar territory, and at others, venturing off the beaten track. Selections will focus on family farmed, biodynamic and organic wines from around the globe – wines with verve and a sense of place. You must be a Co-op member to join.
Co-op Uncorked offers two ways to stay well-stocked with great wines from around the world. Choose either a two ($50), or four-bottle ($100) monthly subscription.
Sign-ups are required by the 15th of the preceding month to get the next month’s shipment. In-store pick-ups happen the first week of the month. We currently only offer in-store pick-ups – no shipping at this time.
