Kale Takes its Place at the Thanksgiving Table
By Sidonie Maroon, Culinary Educator for The Food Co-op
In Scotland, “Come to kail” was an invitation to dinner, because people ate kale so often. In our climate it is king of our winter greens, but needs P.R. Kale could be a mainstay, if only we liked it. Planted in late summer for the fall garden, it sweetens as temperatures dip. It’s easy to grow and continues to give into spring with leaves and kale rabe (the unopened florets, like broccoli, before its yellow flowers bloom). Kale is versatile, adding nutrition, texture and flavor to soups, casseroles and sides. We can braise, saute, bake or blanch and it tastes delicious. Yet, I’m frequently asked how to prepare kale so the unenthused will give it a chance. I didn’t grow up eating kale, so it took experimentation and perseverance to make it a family favorite. Now, kale is near the top of my vegetable list. I grow several varieties and frequently add it to meals. My kale game changed when I learned to chiffonade. I’m not a raw kale lover, nor do I like sizable pieces of unwieldy leaves on my plate. Kale, unless broken down, reminds me of seaweed fronds, so reducing the size of the leaves was a key strategy in my “Let’s all eat more kale!” campaign.
Kale Techniques
Chiffonade (shee-fohn-aid)
In French cuisine, describe leaf vegetables, laid flat, rolled lengthwise into a log, and sliced into thin ribbons. (I create smaller pieces by chopping the ribbons crosswise.)
Saute and Steam
Chiffonade the greens. Then saute them in a skillet, over a medium-high heat, until they soften 3-4 minutes. Add about ½ cup of liquid and turn the heat down to a low simmer. Cover with a lid and allow them to steam until they’re as tender as you prefer.
Instant Pot
For very tender greens, chop the kale and add to a steamer basket with 1 cup of water in the bottom of the inner pot. Cook at high pressure for 3 minutes with an instant release. Chop fine after cooking. Add butter and salt, or add to a salad with olive oil and lemon.
Parchment Wrapped
Chiffonade the kale and toss with olive oil, and seasoning salt. Wrap in parchment paper and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes at 400 F.
What to do with stems?
Hard kale stems are fibrous and unpalatable. I cut the stems off, below the leaves, while holding the bunch. For flat leaved collards, I slice the stems from the individual leaves. If you are harvesting young leaves from the garden, the stems are tender.
Best Kale Types
Tuscan, also known as lacinato or dinosaur kale, has long primeval green leaves and full flavor. It has an affinity for rich foods such as olive oil, bacon, and cheeses. It works well with starches like polenta, buckwheat pasta, barley and simmered beans. Try it seasoned with ingredients like smoked chilies, anchovies, garlic, citrus rind, fennel or cumin seeds.
Russian Red is also called Siberian kale. Its silvery green or blue-gray leaves have bold reddish stalks and veins. The Russian kales are in good company with grilled sausages, poached eggs, braised turkey or combined with dried fruits and nuts.
Curly kale has frilly leaves and has a rounded sweetness when properly cooked. It works well with potatoes or added to savory pies. Try it mixed in casseroles with cottage cheese or ricotta.
Celebration Spiced Kale with Dried Cranberries and Pecans
Serves 4 as a side dish
45 minutes preparation and cooking time
Nothing ho hum here! Tender kale with holiday spices, onions, ginger and garlic sweet and sour hits of apple and cranberry — this side dish makes the perfect counterpoint for turkey, potatoes, winter squash, or sweet potatoes.
Ingredients
¼ cup olive oil
1 large yellow onion, cut into a medium dice
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely minced
⅓ cup dried cranberries
1 medium baking apple, unpeeled, cut into a medium dice
1 bunch Russian red, curly or collards, remove stems, chiffonade and then chop across the thin ribbons into smaller pieces
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 cup toasted pecans, chopped
Spices
¼ teaspoon decorticated cardamom
¼ teaspoon whole allspice berries
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seed
¼ teaspoon peppercorns
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon fine grain sea salt
Directions
Ensemble and prep all ingredients. Using a spice or coffee grinder, grind whole spices and salt together into a coarse powder. Toast and chop pecans and set aside.
Preheat a large saute pan with oil on a medium heat. Adjust heat if needed. Add the chopped onions and saute for 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and continue to saute for another 3 minutes. Add the dried cranberries, ground spices, salt and apple and continue to saute for another 7 to 8 minutes.
Add the chopped kale and fold in. Saute for several minutes. Add the apple cider vinegar to the water and pour into the saute pan. Cover with a lid, turn to a simmer for 5 minutes or until the kale has softened. Take the lid off, return the heat to medium high and cook off the remaining liquid.
Stir in the maple syrup. Taste. It will take several minutes for the flavors to settle.
Place in a serving bowl and garnish with pecans. Serve warm. You can cook this dish ahead and reheat.
Loaded Delicata with Roasted Shiitake and Parmesan Kale
Makes 2 servings
An easy autumn side that you’ll want to keep in your repertoire. The squash roasts and steams, making the insides sweet and the skin edible. The kale becomes unctuous, while the shiitakes and golden garlic are addictive. Serve alone or with Italian sausage.
Ingredients
Shiitakes
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ pound shiitakes, stemmed and thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
Squash
1 delicata squash, sliced lengthwise, seeded
Sprinkle of sea salt
Dash of pepper or red chili powder
Glug of olive oil
2 teaspoons dried sage, or 1 tablespoon fresh
Kale
1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, chiffonade
Pinch of sea salt
Drizzle of olive oil
1 tablespoon sherry or apple cider vinegar
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
Directions
Preheat oven to 425 F and prep all ingredients
Prepare the squash by cutting off the top and tail ends, slicing lengthwise and scraping out the seeds (save the squash scraps to make stock). Rub with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper and sage. Fresh would be wonderful if you have it. Lay the squash in the bottom of a large rectangular casserole lined with parchment paper. A lidded casserole is best, or turn a rimmed baking sheet upside down to cover while roasting.
Prepare the kale by washing, chopping off the stems, rolling the leaves tightly in a bundle lengthwise and finely chopping into rounds, then chop the other direction into smaller pieces. Lay the cut kale on a large piece of parchment paper, massage in olive oil, salt, vinegar and cheese. Wrap the kale up into a package. Lay it, wrapped side down, into the casserole next to the squash.
Roast, on a middle shelf, at 425 F the squash and kale for 45 minutes.
Prepare the mushrooms by wiping them off. Cut off the stems and save them for stock. Slice the shiitakes thinly. On a parchment lined baking sheet lay the mushrooms out. Toss with the olive oil and garlic. Do not salt the mushrooms until they’ve roasted.
Sturdy Greens Make Amazing Salads
This hearty salad features blanched sturdy greens like chard, kale and collards tossed with a bright vinaigrette and mix-ins. Blanching the greens briefly softens them while still keeping them crisp-tender. The result is a satisfying salad that can standalone as a light summer meal or pair well with roasted potatoes and egg salad.
1 large bunch chard, kale or collards chopped
1 large slicing tomato, chopped
½ cup frozen or fresh corn
1/2 cup roasted pistachios
1/2 cup black olives
Olive oil and red wine vinegar to taste
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt to taste
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the chard, kale and collard greens and blanch for 4 minutes until the greens are bright green and slightly softened.
Using a skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer the greens to a colander and rinse briefly with cold water. Squeeze out as much excess water from the greens as possible. Transfer to a large bowl.
Add the tomatoes, corn, pistachios, olives, vinegar, olive oil, red pepper flakes and salt. Toss to combine.
1) 15 minutes before the squash has roasted, add the shiitakes to the oven. If you’re short on room, they can ride on top of the casserole. Stir them after they’ve roasted for 7 minutes. They will roast for 15 minutes.
2) Take everything out and assemble: Open up the wrapped kale and section out a half into each squash boat. Salt the shiitakes and mound onto the kale. Be careful not to eat them all before they reach the squash. Serve with verve — delicioso!
Parmesan Kale
Makes 2 servings
1 bunch lacinato kale, stems removed, chiffonade
Pinch of sea salt
Drizzle of olive oil
1 tablespoon sherry or apple cider vinegar
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
Directions
Prepare the kale by washing, chopping off the stems, rolling the leaves tightly in a bundle lengthwise and finely chopping into rounds, then chop the other direction into smaller pieces. Lay the cut kale on a large piece of parchment paper, massage in olive oil, salt, vinegar and cheese. Wrap the kale up into a package. Lay it, wrapped side down, onto a sheet pan. Roast, on a middle shelf, at 425 F for 30 minutes.
Tuscan Kale Pesto
Makes 1 ½ cups
Condiment
This cavolo nero, black Italian kale pesto is handy to have in the refrigerator to dress in pasta, white beans, or to spread on toast. It’s a delightful dark green and sumptuous. Remember to save your blanching water to boil pasta, or as a base for broth making. This technique will also work with cabbage, and other sturdy greens with variations in the blanching times. It’s a must have a recipe for kale raab and its cousins.
4 cups black Italian kale, chopped with tender stems included
2 cups parsley including stems, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh sage, chopped
1 tablespoon sea salt, for blanching water
1 teaspoon anchovy fish sauce
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon red chili flakes
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt to taste
Before preparing the ingredients, fill a pasta pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the salt once it’s boiling.
Once the water is boiling, add the kale, parsley and sage and bring it back to a boil before timing 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, or when the kale is tender, use a skimmer/strainer to remove the greens from the water. Save the water for pasta or broth.
Shake the excess water off of the greens and add to a blender or food processor with the other ingredients. Blend until smooth. Taste and add salt if needed. I use a Vitamix to make it ultra smooth, but it’s not needed.
Serve or refrigerate and use within a few days.
