The Magic of Miso

By Sidonie Maroon, culinary educator for the Port Townsend Food Co-op

What Is Miso?

Miso is made by fermenting soybeans with a mold called Aspergillus oryzae (known as koji), along with salt and sometimes other grains like rice or barley.

The fermentation process takes time—anywhere from a few months to several years—resulting in a paste that can range in color from pale yellow to deep brown. The flavor develops too, from mild and sweet to bold and salty. It’s a living food, shaped by time, the care of its maker, and the ingredients used.

The Science Behind Miso’s Magic

During the fermentation process, enzymes in the koji break down proteins in the soybeans into amino acids, including glutamate. Glutamate is the key to umami, the “fifth taste” that’s often described as savory, meaty, or deeply satisfying.

Umami doesn’t just stand on its own—it enhances the surrounding flavors. A spoonful of miso can turn a soup or sauce into something extraordinary, amplifying flavor and adding richness. It’s why miso is such a powerful tool in cooking: it doesn’t just add to a dish; it transforms it.

Health Benefits of Miso

Because it’s fermented, miso contains probiotics, or beneficial bacteria, that can support gut health. A healthy gut improves digestion, strengthens the immune system, and even improves mental health.

Miso is also rich in vitamins and minerals, including B vitamins, manganese, and copper.

Historically, miso has played a role in keeping the Japanese healthy. During World War II, researchers noted that communities consuming miso soup daily showed lower rates of radiation sickness after exposure.

Miso Around the World

While miso is most closely tied to Japanese cuisine, it has cousins in kitchens around the globe. Korea has doenjang, a thicker, earthier paste used in soups and stews. In China, fermented soybean paste (doubanjiang) plays a starring role in Sichuan dishes like mapo tofu, where it brings spice and umami together.

Types of Miso

White Miso (Shiro Miso): White miso is the mildest and sweetest, thanks to its shorter fermentation time and higher rice content. It’s perfect for light dishes like salad dressings, vegetable glazes, or marinades for fish or chicken.

Red Miso (Aka Miso): Red miso is fermented longer, giving it a deeper, saltier, and more robust flavor. It shines in stews, braises, and ramen. A spoonful of red miso can transform a vegetable soup into something satisfying. It’s also excellent in marinades for red meat or roasted vegetables like eggplant.

Dark Miso (Hatcho Miso): Dark miso, often made purely from soybeans, has the boldest flavor. Use it sparingly in gravies, barbecue sauces, or even chili, where its earthy, smoky undertones can add complexity.

Ways to Use Miso

●     Miso Butter: Blend miso with softened butter and spread it on grilled vegetables, steak, or roasted corn.

●     Miso Marinades: Combine miso with soy sauce, garlic, and ginger for a marinade that works beautifully on tofu, salmon, or pork.

●     Miso in Baking: Add a spoonful of miso to cookie or brownie batter for a subtle salty-sweet contrast.

●     Miso Dressing: Whisk miso with sesame oil, rice vinegar, and honey for a salad dressing.

●     Miso Broth: Use miso as the base for noodle bowls, adding vegetables, proteins, and spices for a one-pot meal

Miso Magic Dressing

Makes 2 + cups

This addictive dressing is especially good on grated cabbage and carrot salads

½ cup rice vinegar

½ cup white miso

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 teaspoons wasabi paste or powder

2 cloves garlic minced

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 ⅓ cup avocado oil, or salad oil of choice

1. Puree dressing ingredients except the salad oil in a food processor. With the machine running, add the oil in a thin stream.

Miso Dressing For Hearty Greens

1 clove garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon Korean red chili flakes (Gochugaru) or ⅛ teaspoon cayenne 

1 teaspoon dark miso

1 teaspoon runny honey

1 tablespoon nutritional yeast

1 tablespoon anchovy fish sauce   

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

4 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, I used homemade tarragon apple cider vinegar

4 tablespoons avocado oil, or olive oil

1. Puree dressing ingredients together in a small blender or by hand.

Marinated Tofu and Carrot Salad with Buckwheat and Ginger

Serves 4 as a main dish

To roast

4 medium carrots, cut into thin half sticks

1 package firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely minced

Marinade

¼ cup neutral cooking oil (I used avocado)

2 tablespoons red miso

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon maple syrup or brown sugar

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely minced

For Buckwheat

2 cups water

2 tablespoons dehydrated onion flakes

1 cup raw buckwheat groats

½ teaspoon sea salt

To season the buckwheat  

¼ cup dry arame seaweed

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons red miso

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon hulled sesame seeds

1. Make the marinade in a blender, and mix into the carrots and tofu on a parchment paper lined baking sheet. Roast at 425 F for 25 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil, add the salt, onion flakes and buckwheat. Cover with a lid, and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn the heat off and allow the buckwheat to rest with the lid on for 20 minutes.

3. In a large low salad bowl, add the buckwheat and season with the seaweed, sesame oil, miso, and rice vinegar. Mix in the roasted carrots and tofu. Taste and add more rice vinegar if needed. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the top and serve.

Easy Homemade Ketchup

Makes 2 cups

The secret to a good ketchup is lots of umami flavor, but balanced with the correct amounts of sweet, sour, heat and spice. This ketchup is easy to whip up and has so many uses.

6-ounce can of tomato paste

15-ounce can of tomato sauce

1- 2 tablespoons dark miso

1 tablespoon raw red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon “Red Boat” fish sauce (substitute same amount of mushroom powder for plant based)

2 tablespoons blackstrap molasses

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced 

3 cloves garlic, chopped

¼ cup coconut sugar

¼ cup dehydrated onion flakes

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1. Add ingredients to a blender and mix until smooth. Store in a wide-mouthed jar. The Ketchup will keep for 3 weeks in the fridge or 6 months in the freezer.