A Victorian Thanksgiving

By Sidonie Maroon, culinary educator for The Food Co-op

Lincoln’s Vision

In 1863, amid the chaos of the Civil War, President Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday. Before this time, people celebrated Thanksgiving, a traditional harvest festival, on various dates and in different ways. This decision came at a pivotal moment in American history, following the Battle of Gettysburg and issuing the Emancipation Proclamation. In his 1863 Thanksgiving Proclamation, President Lincoln emphasized several key points: National Gratitude, Unity and Healing, Recognition of Sacrifice, Reflection and Introspection and Prayers for Peace. He believed that a national day of thanksgiving could serve as a reminder of resilience, unity, and the importance of gratitude during challenging times.

Sarah Hale’s Storytelling Legacy

Sarah Josepha Hale was a driving force behind making Thanksgiving a national holiday. Her relentless push for a day of gratitude helped embed Thanksgiving into American culture. However, her Victorian-era love of storytelling led to the embellishment—and possibly the fabrication—of the First Thanksgiving tale involving Native Americans and Pilgrims. This story, without fact checking, became part of American folklore, and highlights the era’s fondness for romanticizing history.

Victorian Elegance at the Table

In the Victorian era, hosting elaborate meals was a sign of hospitality. The turkey became the star of the Thanksgiving meal. Side dishes like stuffing, mashed potatoes, and cranberry sauce became favorites. The tradition of serving pies, such as pumpkin and apple, also began in this era, highlighting the Victorians’ love for sweets.

A French Influence

French cooking had a big impact on Victorian cuisine, introducing fancy methods like sautéing and braising. These techniques made side dishes more flavorful and appealing. Chefs started experimenting with ingredients from around the world, adding new flavors to traditional dishes.

Victorian Sensibilities

Victorian cooking was all about balancing different tastes: sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. Sweet dishes often came with tangy sauces or pickled veggies, creating an exciting mix of flavors. Fresh, seasonal ingredients were key, and herbs and spices were used to enhance their natural tastes. Sauces added richness, while exotic spices brought new aromas to the table.

Modern Twists on Old Favorites

While our Thanksgiving meals have changed over time, many Victorian influences persist. Today, we often mix contrasting flavors in a single dish, drawing inspiration from global cuisines. This blend of flavors gives classic dishes a modern twist, appealing to today’s tastes.

A Tapestry of Flavors

Various cultural influences have added depth to the Thanksgiving menu. African American culinary traditions have made sweet potatoes a staple, often served as sweet potato pie or candied yams. Indigenous ingredients like wild rice, grown by the Ojibwe people, and squash, cultivated by the Iroquois Confederacy, showcase the rich agricultural heritage of Native American communities. Pecans, traditionally gathered by the Choctaw people, bring a Southern flavor to Thanksgiving desserts.

Celebrating Imperfection

As we gather for Thanksgiving, let’s honor the diverse influences that shape this imperfect yet important holiday. Yes, history is complex and its stories flawed, but Thanksgiving remains an opportunity to give and gather. Through food and feast, we continue to connect with history, culture, and each other. We can celebrate a holiday that continues to evolve, honoring and updating traditions. It serves as a reminder of resilience, unity, and the importance of family and community during challenging times.

Sweet Potato Casserole

Serves 6-8

A sweet potato casserole that will bring everyone into the kitchen wondering what smells so good.

2 cups mashed sweet potato, one large sweet potato

1 can classic unsweetened coconut milk (13.5 ounces)

½ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon whole allspice berries, ground

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns, ground

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste

3 eggs

Topping

1 cup pecans

1 cup dates, chopped

1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a deep dish pie pan.

Using a food processor, pulse the pecans, dates, coconut, and vanilla together into a coarse meal. Set aside.

Using a spice or coffee grinder, grind the dry spices together. Add sweet potato, coconut milk, sugar, salt, spices, and eggs to the food processor and blend until smooth. Pour the mixture into the pie pan set on a baking sheet to catch drips. Sprinkle the topping over the top.

Bake the casserole until set — about 45 minutes.

Note: Cover the casserole with foil or a large metal bowl after the first 15 minutes. Remove the foil or bowl for the last 10 minutes.

Sweet Potato and Kale Salad with Lemon and Fennel Sauce

1 large sweet potato, diced with skins

1 bunch Italian kale, finely cut

½ cup chopped parsley

Sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

Juice and zest of one lemon

⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon cayenne or red chili flakes

1 teaspoon fennel seed

2 teaspoons paprika

½ teaspoon sea salt or more to taste

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a teaspoon of sea salt. Add the sweet potato, bring back to the boil, and time 5 to 7 minutes or until fork tender. Skim out with a strainer or spider, and add to a large shallow salad bowl.

Add the kale to the boiling water and time, when it returns to a boil, about 6 minutes, or until tender. Remove in the same way. Cool and squeeze any excess water out. Add it to the salad bowl.

Meanwhile, grind the fennel, cayenne, salt, and paprika together in a spice grinder. Blend, in a small food processor, the ground spices, garlic, lemon juice, zest, and olive oil.

Pour the sauce over the vegetables, and add salt if needed. Serve with protein of choice.

Butternut Squash Salad with Spicy Maple, Ginger, Lemon Dressing

3 lb butternut squash peeled and cut into a medium dice

1 cup chopped parsley

Dressing

½ cup maple syrup

½ cup fresh lemon juice plus zest of whole lemon

⅓ cup avocado oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 cup candied ginger made into a paste

On a baking sheet lined with parchment, roast squash with oil at 425°F, stir and roast another until easily pierced with a knife about 35-40 minutes.

Dressing: Make a paste out of the candied ginger by pulsing in a food processor. Add the other ingredients and process until emulsified.

Pour over squash, toss, and marinate for several hours. Sprinkle parsley over before serving. Taste to correct salt.

Roasted Sweet Potato Salad with Lime and Ginger Dressing (Shakarkand Salaad)

Serves 6

1 hour

3 lbs Jewel or Red Garnet sweet potatoes peeled and cut into a medium dice (⅜ inch square cubes)

Dressing

¼ cup avocado oil

1 ½ teaspoons coarse sea salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

2 tablespoons ginger finely minced

2 teaspoons toasted and crushed coriander seed

2 teaspoons toasted and crushed cumin seeds

For Serving

3 or 4 tablespoons coconut sugar

¼ cup fresh lime juice, plus 1 tablespoon lime zest

1 cup chopped cilantro

1 cup toasted and chopped cashews

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Prepare the parchment lined large baking sheet.

Make the dressing: add dressing ingredients to a small food processor and blend together.

On a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, massage the sweet potato with the dressing and roast at 425°F for 20 minutes. Stir, bring the side sweet potato pieces to the middle and roast for another 15-20 minutes, or until done. Sprinkle the sugar over, return to the oven and allow the sugar to caramelize on the sweet potatoes for 2-3 minutes, watching closely so that nothing burns.

Toss with the lime, taste for salt and sugar, and correct the flavors as needed. Sprinkle the cilantro and cashews over the top before serving. Taste and add sea salt if needed.

Notes: If there’s time, marinate the salad for 1-2 hours before serving.

Sweet Potato Casserole

Serves 6-8

A sweet potato casserole that will bring everyone into the kitchen wondering what smells so good.

2 cups mashed sweet potato, one large sweet potato

1 can classic unsweetened coconut milk (13.5 ounces)

½ cup brown sugar or 1 teaspoon monk fruit powder for a sugar-free recipe

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon whole allspice berries, ground

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns, ground

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste

3 eggs

Topping

1 cup pecans (cashews are another option)

1 cup dates, chopped

1 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a deep dish pie pan.

Using a food processor or Vitamix, pulse the pecans, dates, coconut, and vanilla together into a coarse meal. Set aside.

Using a spice or coffee grinder, grind the dry spices together. Add sweet potato, coconut milk, sugar, salt, spices, and eggs to the food processor or Vitamix and blend until smooth. Pour the mixture into the pie pan set on a baking sheet to catch drips. Sprinkle the topping over the top.

Bake the casserole until set — about 45 minutes. Note: Cover the casserole with foil or a large metal bowl after the first 15 minutes. Remove the foil or bowl for the last 10 minutes.

Serve warm or cold.

Beet Pickles

Makes 1 quart

4 cups beets, peeled and cut into ¼ inch sticks

1 cup raw apple cider vinegar

6 tablespoons honey

½ cup water

2 ½ teaspoons fine-grained sea salt

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons grated horseradish
2 teaspoons caraway seed

Peel beet and slice into French fry-sized sticks. Bring a pot of water to a boil, salt, and blanch the beets for 1 minute, or until still crunchy. Strain and submerge in cold water. Drain and add to a quart mason jar.

In a saucepan, bring the vinegar and other brine ingredients to a simmer for 15 minutes. Cool, pour the brine over the beets, seal with a non-reactive lid, and refrigerate overnight before serving.

Lemon and Parmesan Roasted Brussel Sprouts

1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Parmesan Seasoning

2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus 2 teaspoons zest

¼ cup shaved Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, minced

Fresh parsley leaves, for garnish Pinch of red pepper flakes

Preheat the oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the end off of each sprout, take off the outer leaves. Slice the Brussels sprouts in half, toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread on the baking sheet cut side down. Roast for 20 to 30 minutes or until tender and golden brown around the edges.

Toss the roasted Brussels sprouts with the lemon juice, zest, Parmesan, and thyme leaves. Garnish with parsley and red pepper flakes.