Flavor Sleuth
By Sidonie Maroon, The Food Co-op Culinary Educator, abluedotkitchen.com
Follow Sidonie on The Food Co-op’s Facebook group Cooking with the Co-op
Recipes included:
Raisin Ruckus BBQ Sauce, Maroon’s BBQ Sauce, Queen’s Sauce, Apple Ketchup, and Vegan Ketchup
You might want to try www.foodcoop.coop/blog/eight-parsley-sauces-for-summer
When I was ten, I devoured the Encyclopedia Brown books. He was my hero, using his brains to solve mysteries. Little did I know that I’d grow up to be a flavor sleuth. While I delight in the mad scientist parts of cooking, concocting and experimenting, it’s deciphering taste riddles that’s high adventure.
Summer’s about outdoor cooking and good barbecue sauce is a necessity. There are lots of sauces to buy, but homemade is so much better. The trick is decoding what makes a good one? People make fortunes with a winner, and closely guard its secrets. Come on in the clubhouse and I’ll let you in on what I’ve uncovered about flavor, and together, we’ll dig through the clues.
Sweet Isn’t Just Sugar Anymore
Don’t dump the processed sugar in! Yes, the sauce needs sweetness, but use the opportunity to infuse it with ingredients that will also add depth and complexity. Instead, try dried dates for a caramel tone. Raisins make an incredible sweetener, and I often make raisin pastes for sauces. Concentrated frozen orange juice contributes a bright tang that elevates heavy meats. Tomato paste is another concentrate that brings in a trio of sweet, umami and acid. Some spices are sweet like cinnamon and allspice. Sauteed onions give a tremendous flavor boost. Dehydrated onions are candy with intensity. There are so many ways to use sweet foods to their full advantage. Believe me, attention to this detail will elevate your game.
Sweet Loves Heat
Our tongue goes wild, flipping back and forth between heat and sweet. Soak both chipotle and ancho chilies in boiling water and add the chilies, seeds and water to your sauce. The chipotle delivers a smoky element and the ancho a fruity warmth. Cinnamon and ginger raise the temperature without going overboard. A touch of heat, but not heavy-handed.
Salty, Sour and the Microbial Cha Cha Cha
Salty ingredients that go through a microbial fermentation process bring depth, umami, and sour nuances. Good examples are tamari, soy sauce, miso and fish sauce.
Sours follow a similar dance. There are sour fruits, but don’t forget that we create flavorful sour compounds by fermenting foods. Apple cider vinegar is my barbeque sour of choice. Another acid of note is the tamarind pod. It comes in a convenient paste and also makes a wonderful lemonade like summer drink. Tamarind is one of my secret weapons, and I use it often.
Never Underestimate the Power of Sour!
We need sours to cut fattiness, brighten, and release flavor. If your food tastes under-seasoned, but you know it isn’t, add vinegar. This science trick always amazes my students.
Kokumi and Umami
Kokumi and umami are Japanese flavor terms. Umami translates as “deliciousness”, because it describes foods that taste meaty, savory, and ripe. Glutamates are the compounds that create these umami flavors in foods. Tomatoes, mushrooms, walnuts, seaweed and grilled meats are natural examples.
Kokumi means “rich taste”. Both allium sulphur foods, like garlic, and smoked meats, have kokumi characteristics. We want both taste sensations in our sauce to make it irresistible.
As you read through the recipe see if you can spot the flavor clues I’ve left. Pay attention and you’ll never read recipes the same way again.
I just might put “Encyclopedia Brown” on my summer reading list, it’s been awhile.
Raisin Ruckus BBQ Sauce
Makes 4 cups
Ingredients
2 six ounce cans tomato paste
½ cup pitted deglet dates
½ cup raisins
¼ cup dehydrated onion flakes
½ cup orange juice concentrate
¼ cup black strap molasses
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
2 tablespoons tamari
¼ cup raw apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
1 tablespoon fish sauce, I use “Red Boat”
1 teaspoon sea salt
4 allspice berries, ground
1 dried chipotle chili
1 dried small ancho chili
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¾ cup boiling water
Directions
1) Soak the dried chilies, discarding the stems, in the boiling water until soft.
2) Add all of the ingredients to a blender*, including the chilies and chili water. Blend until smooth. Store in the fridge or freeze. Note: I used a Vitamix at high speed.
Queen’s Sauce
Makes 1⅔ cups
Quick
Excellent brown sauce for burgers, steaks, a full English breakfast, or bacon sandwiches. Makes a wonderful homemade ketchup.
Ingredients
1 ⅓ cup diced canned tomatoes
⅓ cup whole pitted deglet dates
2 teaspoons unsulfured blackstrap molasses
1 tablespoon coconut sugar
1 teaspoon anchovy fish sauce (Red Boat brand)
2 teaspoons tamarind paste
1 tablespoon raw apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1 clove garlic, minced
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon Korean red pepper powder, or red chili flakes
¼ teaspoon black pepper, ground
¼ teaspoon allspice, ground
Directions
Add the ingredients to a high powered blender and blend on high speed until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and serve. Refrigerate and use within a couple of weeks.
Apple Ketchup
Makes 2 quarts
A smooth, spicy apple sauce for meats, chicken, sandwiches, sweet potatoes or Indian food. It’s also good by the spoonful.
Ingredients
Saute
¼ cup olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
1 cup raisins
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1 teaspoon fish sauce, anchovy based
¼ cup raw apple cider vinegar
Spice Mix
1 tablespoon broken cinnamon stick pieces
2 tablespoons brown sugar
4 whole cloves
1 teaspoon whole anise seed
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon sea salt, fine grain
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
½ teaspoon whole allspice berries
¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
Finishing
2 quarts tart homemade applesauce
¼ cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons raw apple cider vinegar
¼ teaspoon sea salt, fine grain
Directions
Using a large heavy-bottomed saute pan, on a medium heat, saute the onions in olive oil for 10 minutes, stir as needed. Add the raisins and ginger; saute for 10 minutes. Add the vinegar and fish sauce; reduce for 10 minutes.
As you saute and occasionally stir, measure out the spice mix ingredients and grind them into a rough powder, Add the ground spices to the saute. Turn off the heat. Puree the saute into a smooth sauce and return it to the pan.
Add the applesauce and finishing ingredients. The flavor will change as it sits. Wait to taste before correcting the flavors if needed.
You may eat the ketchup right away, hot water can or freeze. It will keep refrigerated for several weeks.
Easy Homemade Ketchup
Makes 2 cups
Quick
The secret to a good Ketchup is lots of umami flavor, but balanced with the correct amounts of sweet, sour, heat and spice. This ketchup is easy to whip up and has so many uses.
Ingredients
6-ounce can of tomato paste
15-ounce can of tomato sauce
1 tablespoon tamari
1 tablespoon raw red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Braggs liquid aminos
2 tablespoons blackstrap molasses
1 tablespoon tamarind paste
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ cup coconut sugar
¼ cup dehydrated onion flakes
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Directions
Add all ingredients to a high-powered blender and mix until smooth. Store in a wide-mouthed jar. The Ketchup will keep for 3 weeks in the fridge or 6 months in the freezer.