Reconsider Sweetness
By Sidonie Maroon, Culinary Educator For the Food Co-op
What’s your first memory of sweetness? Mine takes me back to when I was six, alone in my Grandma’s kitchen baking applesauce cake. She was busy running her plant nursery, so the kitchen was my playground. As the cake cooled, I stood on a chair, searching the cupboard for powdered sugar to make the glaze. I found a bottle of McCormick's peppermint extract and mixed it with the sugar and water. The peppermint was exciting, but the powdered sugar overwhelmed me with sweetness—too sweet. If I’d known the word, I’d have called it cloying. I quickly cut a piece of the cake and tasted it—apple, brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. This was the sweet I loved.
Understanding Sweetness in Baking
Years of baking have taught me that sweetness is often misunderstood in recipes. Many people rely heavily on white sugars, which provide a straightforward, neutral flavor. While it can enhance and balance other flavors when used correctly, white sugar often takes center stage, leading to an overpowering, bland sweetness. The real art of baking lies in using the right type and amount of sweetener to create spectacular undertones and nuances. White sugar, although versatile, lacks the complexity and depth that is possible in great baking.
The Richness of Dates
For me, dates are the gold standard. They offer a rich caramel sweetness with deep mineral notes, and they caramelize beautifully when baked. Dates harmonize with a wide range of ingredients, making them versatile and easy to use. They can be pureed for easy measurement and create a sweet yet complex background that allows the star ingredients to shine. Additionally, dates add moisture, fiber, essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. With a low to medium glycemic index, they have a slower impact on blood sugar levels, making them a healthier option. I use pitted Deglet Noor dates in quick breads, cakes, puddings, cream pie fillings, bar cookies, and crumbles.
Unrefined Coconut Sugar
Unrefined coconut sugar is another favorite for holiday baking. Its mild, caramel-like sweetness enhances flavors without overpowering. Coconut sugar retains moisture, keeping baked goods soft and chewy. It has a lower glycemic index than refined sugars and contains trace vitamins and minerals. With a texture similar to brown sugar, it’s easy to incorporate into recipes. Coconut sugar is also sustainable, derived from coconut palm sap and requiring less energy to produce.
Dried Fruits and Natural Sweeteners
Incorporating dried fruits like figs, raisins, and prunes adds a whole palette of flavors. These fruits add natural sweetness and mineral complexity. Figs are natural candy, raisins give a slight tang, and prunes contribute a spiced earthy flavor. Beyond dried fruits, maple syrup and honey are invaluable in the kitchen. Maple syrup adds a warm, caramel-like sweetness, while honey, with its floral notes, is excellent for glazes and frostings.
Choosing the Right Sweetener
The right sweetener doesn't overpower but enchants the flavors, much like the perfect balance of apple and spice in my first cake. We have the choice to create baked goods that capture the essence of true sweetness—complex, satisfying, and heartfelt.
New Deal Diamonds
Coconut Carob and Cashew Bars
10-inch round tart cut into diamonds
These are a family favorite. Rich and chocolaty and all without added sugar, eggs, dairy, gluten, or chocolate! Although, just subtract the chicory and carob and add ½ cup of Dutch cocoa powder for a chocolate version.
Base
● 1 cup raw cashews
● ½ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
● 1 cup pitted dates
● ¼ cup flaxseeds, ground
● ¼ teaspoon sea salt
Topping
● 1 cup raw cashews
● ½ cup pitted dates
● 3 tablespoons chia seeds, ground
● ¼ cup roasted chicory root
● ½ cup carob flour
● 2 teaspoons cinnamon
● ¼ teaspoon sea salt
● 14-ounce can unsweetened full-fat coconut milk
Making the Base
● Preheat the oven to 350°F.
● Using a spice grinder, grind the flaxseeds into a meal.
● Using a high-speed blender or food processor, grind the coconut flakes and cashews together, add the dates and flax. Grind into a rough paste.
● Put the paste into a bowl, mixing in the salt.
● Press into a 10-inch round tart pan with a removable bottom.
● Press the dough into the bottom and bake in a preheated oven for
12 minutes.
Making the Topping
● Preheat the oven to 350°F.
● Using a spice grinder, grind the chia seeds and roasted chicory together into a rough powder.
● In a high-speed blender, blend the cashews, carob, coconut milk, dates, ground chia, and chicory together until smooth.
● Spread the topping onto the base and bake at 350°F for 15 minutes.
● Cool and cut into bars on the diagonal (diamonds).
Friar Bob’s Cookies
Flourcrafted Sweets, gluten-free
Makes 30
‘Chocolaty’, rich, sweet, and full of flavor. These are a satisfying treat to serve a friend with coffee. Eat them with confidence as a decadent but healthy sweet. Gluten-free, egg-free.
Dry Ingredients
● ½ cup dry prewashed quinoa
● ¼ cup dry buckwheat groats
● ¼ cup dry chickpeas
● ¼ cup flaxseed
● 2 teaspoons psyllium seed husk powder
● 1 teaspoon sea salt
● 1 teaspoon baking powder
● 1 teaspoon baking soda
● 1 vanilla bean, broken into pieces
● ½ cup carob powder
● ¼ cup roasted chicory root granules
● ½ cup unrefined coconut sugar
Wet Ingredients
● ¾ cup cold or frozen unsalted butter, cut into pieces
● 1 cup pitted dates
● 1 cup raw or roasted cashews
● ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
Directions
● Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper.
● Using a Vitamix or other high-speed grinder, grind all dry ingredients together into a flour on the highest speed for 1 minute. Sift through a handheld strainer into a work bowl.
● Using a food processor, pulse the dates, cashews, and butter together into a fine meal. Add the apple cider vinegar.
● Add the flour in batches until a dough is formed.
● Scoop out the dough into 2-tablespoon balls and flatten with the bottom of a jar onto the baking sheet.
● Bake for 8 minutes. Slide the parchment paper with cookies off of the sheet onto a surface to cool and firm up before eating.
Flourcrafted Cardamom Orange Date Mini Loaves
Makes 4 mini loaves
These little loaves will fill your kitchen with the heavenly scent of cardamom and oranges, and that’s not a bad idea.
Dry
● ½ cup raw pre-washed quinoa
● ¼ cup raw buckwheat groats
● ¼ cup raw chickpeas
● ¼ cup golden flax seeds
● ¼ cup tapioca starch
● 1 tablespoon psyllium seed husk powder
● 1 teaspoon sea salt
● 1 teaspoon baking powder
● 1 teaspoon baking soda
● 2 teaspoons decorticated cardamom
● 2 teaspoons cinnamon
● ¼ teaspoon black peppercorns
● 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Wet
● ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
● Zest of whole lemon
● ¼ cup fresh orange juice
● Zest of whole orange
● 2 teaspoons orange extract
● 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
● 1 tablespoon fresh turmeric
● ¾ cup pitted Deglet Noor dates
● ½ cup unsalted butter, melted
● ½ cup carrot puree
● 1 cup whole milk
● Prepare 4 mini-loaf pans (3x5) and preheat the oven to 350°F. Melt the butter with the dates in an oven-proof dish.
● Using a high-powered blender at high speed for 1 minute, grind the dry ingredients into a flour. Sift into a mixing bowl and regrind any larger pieces.
● Puree the wet ingredients until creamy (about ½ a minute). Using a rubber spatula, blend into the flour. Divide the batter between the pans, filling each ⅔ full.
● Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the internal temperature is 200°F. Invert onto a baking rack plate and allow them to cool before slicing.
Date and Pistachio Cookie Bars
Flourcraft Method
Makes 30 small diamond-shaped bars
Easy to make, filled with nutritious ingredients, and sure to please. These spiced date and pistachio bars are spicy, rich, and sweet.
Flour
● ½ cup dry chickpeas
● ½ cup dry prewashed quinoa
● ½ cup tapioca starch
● ½ cup coconut sugar
● ¼ cup flaxseed
● 1 tablespoon psyllium seed husk powder
● 2 teaspoons cinnamon
● 1 teaspoon ground ginger
● 1 teaspoon anise seed
● 1 teaspoon sea salt
● 1 teaspoon baking soda
● ¼ teaspoon decorticated cardamom
Additions
● 1 cup pitted dates
● 1 cup pistachios
Liquid and Fats
● 1 ½ cubes unsalted butter (12 tablespoons), chopped into small pieces
● ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
● ¼ cup water
● Optional: 1 teaspoon lemon or orange extract or 1 tablespoon zest
Directions
● Using a high-speed blender, Vitamix, on high speed, grind the flour for 1 minute. Sift into a large bowl. Regrind any fines. Grind the sifted flour once more for 30 seconds or so to make an ultra-fluffy flour.
● In the same blender, grind the dates and pistachios into a rough meal. Add them to the flour.
● Using a large food processor, or by hand, pulse in the butter pieces with the other liquid until it comes together into a smooth dough.
● Preheat the oven to 350°F. Ready a large pizza pan with parchment paper. Pat the dough evenly onto the pan. I use wet hands. Smooth the dough and score into diamond shapes.
● Bake at 350°F for 25 minutes. Allow the bars to cool. Cut along the scored lines. Keep them in the fridge or freeze. They’d be great cold or toasted.