Tips for Three Classic Summer Salads
By Sidonie Maroon, Culinary Educator for the Food Co-op
What makes a classic summer salad shine at a backyard potluck? Visuals! Begin with a large low bowl because it’s easier to see the color and textures, tosses evenly to distribute dressing, and guests have access to ingredients. Taste! Use fresh and seasonal produce. Balance sweet, sour, salt and heat with umami depth. Include an element of surprise, something unexpected but perfect to make it memorable.
#1 Coleslaw: Salting and a Touch of Sugar
Cabbage slaws often turn into limp watery messes with a bland mayo swirling around, but you can solve the problem by taking the time to salt and drain the cabbage, drawing most of the liquid out before adding the dressing. Add 2 tablespoons sugar with the salt to both wilt and season the cabbage and give you a pickle crisp base to build your favorite flavors on.
For two pounds of shredded cabbage—red, white or a mix: mix in 1 teaspoon of fine sea salt and
2 tablespoons of sugar. Let it sit in a colander for an hour, then press out the juices. No need to rinse. I like to add a light dressing with plenty of lemon juice or apple cider vinegar, a touch of oil, more salt if needed, and freshly ground pepper. Try adding something fun like toasted walnuts, poppy seeds and currants.
#2 Potato Salad: Slice Potatoes and Pass on the Mayo
Use unpeeled red potatoes which hold their shape, and instead of cutting them into chunks, slice as you would for scalloped potatoes, and then cut into quarters. Bring a big pot of water to a rolling boil, add 1 tablespoon of sea salt and add the potatoes. When they reach the boiling point again, cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until tender. Scoop them out using a strainer/spider, run them under cold water and drain.
For five medium red potatoes try a dressing of—2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, ¼ cup lemon juice, ¼ cup salad oil, 2 teaspoons anchovy based fish sauce, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, ½ teaspoon sea salt.
From here, add what you like—pickles, green onions, and boiled eggs. Remember that potatoes need plenty of time to soak in the dressing, even overnight. Always taste your salads before serving because cold foods usually need an extra boost of salt and sour before serving.
Use fresh herbs like dill, parsley or tarragon. Instead of boiling try roasting the potatoes with garlic, lemon and olive oil.
#3 Kale Salad: Skip the Massage and Blanch Instead
Instead of massaging the kale, try blanching in boiling water until tender. This quickly breaks down the fibers, significantly reducing oxalate content and keeps the kale bright green. The blanching time depends on the kale. For tender overwintered kale it can be 1 ½ minutes, and for tough kale up to 4 or 5 minutes. I like to pull out a piece and taste it, just like for pasta. Run the finished kale under cold water and use a salad spinner or towels to dry it completely.
A kale salad also needs several hours to soak in a dressing, and love lots of goodies like—pepita seeds, toasted almonds or pistachios, sliced figs and black pepper.
Quimper Kale Salad
Serves 4-6
2 big bunches of curly or red Russian kale, tender is best, remove the stems, cut fine—chiffonade into small pieces. (You can also use a mix of kale and sprouting broccoli, blanch both until tender.)
1 teaspoon sea salt for the water
1 cup fresh basil leaves, briefly blanched and cut fine
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
½ cup pepita seeds
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
Dressing
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon Korean red chili flakes (Gochugaru) or ⅛ teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon fermented black beans, or dark miso
1 teaspoon runny honey
1 tablespoon nutritional yeast
1 tablespoon anchovy fish sauce
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
4 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, I used homemade tarragon apple cider vinegar
4 tablespoons avocado oil, or olive oil
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and then add 1 teaspoon sea salt.
In a small food processor, blend the dressing together.
In batches, blanch the cut kale until just tender. Depending on the kale this could take from 1 ½ minutes to 5 minutes. Start timing when the water comes back to a boil after adding the kale. Use a skimmer/spider to remove the kale, submerging it in cold water. Spin the kale in a salad spinner after blanching until completely dry and add to a large salad bowl. (you may also need to dry the kale with a tea towel.)
Blanch the whole basil leaves for 30 seconds, or until just wilted and chop fine. Mix the basil and scallions into the kale.
Add the dressing and toss. Sprinkle the pepitas and parmesan over the salad, taste and serve.
Note: It gets better if allowed to marinate. Taste and add more salt and vinegar if needed, or a squeeze of lemon before serving.
Ethiopian Style Beet and Potato Salad
Key Sir Alicha
Serves 4
2 medium potatoes, like Yukon Gold, cut into a medium dice
2 medium beets, peeled and cut into a medium dice
1/2 of a medium onion, finely diced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Dressing
1/4 cup avocado oil
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, minced
Ready a big serving bowl. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a big pinch of salt. Add the diced potatoes, bring back to a full boil and cook for 5 minutes or until tender. Strain them into the serving bowl, using a spider, sieve, spoon skimmer or use a steamer basket.
Add the beets, bring back to the boil and cook until tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Strain them in the same manner. Add onions and boil for one minute and strain them into the serving bowl.
While waiting for the veggies to cook, make the dressing. Dress the salad. It will need the salt and pepper to bring the flavors up and out. Not too much, but potatoes always need some salt. You will know when the dressing, potatoes and beets taste balanced between salty, sweet and sour. Freshly ground pepper and good salt really make this dish!
Greek Potato Salad
Patatosalata
4 servings
2 pounds new potatoes, boiled halved and sliced (or use fingerlings)
4 eggs, boiled and cut into quarters lengthwise
½ cup green country style olives, pitted and sliced
½ cup Italian parsley, chopped
1 bunch scallions, finely chopped include greens
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fresh marjoram, minced
In a serving bowl, combine potatoes, olives, parsley, scallions and marjoram.
In a small jar, shake lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper together. Mix into the salad and lay the eggs on top. Serve with fresh tomato slices.
Spicy Vietnamese Cabbage and Carrot Slaw
Serves 6
This delicious spicy slaw traditionally includes shredded chicken (ga xe phai). It’s an excellent main dish salad, but I think it also deserves attention as a vegetable side.
You may wonder what’s with the maple syrup in the dressing? I often use maple syrup to balance flavors, because I prefer its mild flavor where sugar is too assertive. Besides, Andrea Nguyen uses it, to the same end, in her recipes, and she’s Vietnamese, so I feel vindicated.
Salad
1 small green cabbage, shredded
3 medium carrots, scrubbed and shredded
½ cup scallions, thinly sliced
½ cup fresh mint, shredded
Cilantro for garnish
Optional salad additions
2 cups shredded chicken, or baked tofu thinly sliced
½ cup roasted peanuts, chopped
Dressing
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons salad oil, I used avocado
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a salad bowl, toss the cabbage, carrots, scallions and mint together. I use a food processor to shred my cored cabbage and carrots.
Using a mini food processor, or by hand, blend the dressing ingredients together until smooth. If you’ll eat the entire salad for one meal, then dress it right before eating. If not, then only dress the portions you’ll eat. The oil in the dressing will otherwise make it soggy.
Garnish the individual salad bowls with cilantro and peanuts if using.